Heavy-Set Men

Executive style suits in Washington, DC for heavy-set men should be cut generously. Accentuate vertical lines. Choose chalk stripes and herringbones over plaids and solids. Shirt collars should not be round. Select collars with points that lead away from the face at a slight angle, but never a spread collar.

Tall Men

Horizontal lines should be accentuated to stress breadth. Fabrics should be unfinished worsteds, tweeds, and other bulky materials. The jacket should be worn on the long side with a loose waist and extra width in the shoulders. Trousers should always be cuffed.

International Styles & Cuts

We create custom-made, hand-stitched executive suits. Please call for a quote.

The English Style

The English style seems to be the most popular of all the schools of suit fashion, showing careful attention to detail. The jacket lies close to the body and is marked at the waist. The shoulders are soft, have a little padding, and are not particularly large. The armholes are usually cut quite high. The English suit includes two side vents, even in dress suits. The double-breasted jacket is more popular in England than in America where they prefer a two or three-button single-breasted version, and the trousers usually have two pleats with the pockets placed along the seams.

The Italians

The Italians prefer the shoulder to be quite high, padded, and to sag just a bit. The jacket clings a bit more tightly to the body and has a rather narrow armhole. The jackets generally have pockets without flaps and are without vents in the back. In Italy, single or double vents are often limited to sports jackets. The Italian pants have diagonally cut pockets and a low waist, probably because the Italians do not favor wearing suspenders or vests with their close-fitted suit jackets.

In America

In America, the shoulder is more naturally soft, with an even slope and with little or no padding. Jackets almost always have three buttons, with only the center button fastened. The armholes are wider than the English executive suits, thus providing more comfort and adaptability to different physiques. The pockets of the jacket have flaps, and the back has only one vent. The pants usually have no pleats, and the fit down the leg is close.

The French

The French school comes from the style begun in the 1960s by Pierre Cardin,
who designed a jacket with high shoulders and a little visible roll in the sleeve head.
This jacket is flared and very long, popular in England in the first half of the 20th century.
Cardin pants were bell-bottomed and without pleats.

The German

The Germans' suits have always been designed for comfort and durability. The shoulder of the jacket is low and natural. The chest is prominent, providing enough room on the inside for pockets to hold wallets, notebooks, pens, etc. The pants’ crotch and waist are low.

The Sabatini™ Style

The Sabatini™ executive style suits in Washington, D.C. draw from the best features of all these styles. Sabatini™ suggests that men should concentrate on the executive single-breasted, two-button style suit with a notched lapel and a medium fitted waist. The armhole should be 3/4" deeper than the English style for comfort. Opt for a medium fit shoulder. The collar of the jacket should lie close to the neck, and the lapel should fit the contours of the chest. Make sure the inside canvas is of medium weight; if the canvas is too heavy, your jacket will be stiff. On the other hand, a too light canvas will not work in the heat and humidity of summer. Your jacket will have no body and will appear wrinkled and worn.

Custom-Made Shirts

Sabatini™ custom made shirts are individually crafted from the world's finest European and Egyptian cotton.  

The Executive style image, remaining at Sabatini Family since 1846.

Every shirt is hand-crafted to your unique measurements.  Sabatini™ pays particular attention to the finer points of styling and detail, fabric selection, cuffs, collars, and pocket styles to assure the perfect fit.

Dress

Dress Medium

European

British Spread

Button Down

British Spread

Tab

Band

GF Narrow British 1

Narrow British 1

Wing Collar 1

Dress shirts can make or break a fine suit. Fine quality shirts are made of 100 percent cotton. Shirt collars must balance the shape of the face. A long narrow-spread collar will accentuate a thin, elongated face. A rounded collar will accentuate a rounded face. Counterbalance with a medium to a long point-spread collar. The correct height for a properly fitted shirt collar is about one-half inch above the jacket collar. The cuff of a shirt should always be seen when wearing a jacket, with approximately one-quarter to one-half inch showing.

Sabatini™ maintains the European tradition of coming to your home or office for measurement and fabric selection. Please call (202) 710-7639 for your appointment. Or email us at sabatinisuit@gmail.com. For distant orders, we will send you the fabric selections of your choice, and you send us a shirt for measurement.

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